Denimology- Raw Denim, Selvage Denim, & More
J.Brunhoff | May 13, 2009
While denim wear was born in America over 150 years ago it is today’s premium denim craze that is as American as Apple Pie. Levi Strauss & Co. was founded in 1853 when a young German moved from Bavaria to San Francisco. He started making rugged overalls for railroad workers made out of a cotton twill loomed in a special way creating a durable fabric identified by its unique diagonal ribbing.
While denim fabric continued to be used in many apparel items it wasn’t until the 1950s that jeans became fashionable in America. As the jeans phenomenon exploded in the 50s and 60s Levis updated there production facilities to keep up with demand.
Fast forward to 2003 and jeans are still a staple of American fashion. In keeping with the American sentiments of individuality and excess the notion of premium denim was born. Jeans which were accepted as a mass produced workwear items that cost $20-$30 were reborn as fashionable pants that defined personal style and cost between $200-$300. New brands were born with the mission of creating unique and exclusive denim using many of the storied original production methods.
Most of today’s premium denim is loomed in Japan where they still use old style shuttle looms that were abandoned when American mills upgraded there looms in the 50’s. The older shuttle looms use a continuous thread as opposed individual cross threads in the weave. The result of using these looms is denim fabric created with what is called a selvage or self edge as opposed to the frayed edge of modern individual thread denim. These selvage denim jeans are considered to be more durable in addition to having the cache of fabric milled the old fashion way.
The other most fashionable term in modern denim is Raw or Dry Denim. Raw or Dry Denim as opposed to washed denim, is a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed during its production. Over time the denim will generally fade and crease in a way that is unique to its wearer.
Where most denim is washed or distressed to give a worn in look people who buy raw denim are tasked with breaking in their own jeans to achieve a unique fade. When buying a pair of raw denim you are instructed to not wash you jeans for 6 months to a year with almost daily wear to break them in and fade them properly
